In the Klang Valley, restaurants that grill meat over an open flame are not unheard of, but neither are charcoal-grilled steaks.
If you are a Kota Kinabalu steak enthusiast, you probably would be visiting HEARTH to satisfy your appetite.
Emerson Teoh, 25, is the owner and manager of HEARTH, a restaurant inspired by his lifelong passion with grilled food. It’s true that food prepared in a wood-fired oven has a distinct flavor and aroma.
He says, “Ever since I was a young boy, I have always been drawn to this open-fire style of cooking. That curiosity eventually developed into a passion and a desire to learn more.
Teoh began training at Le Cordon Bleu Sunway to pursue his career as a chef, and he later spent nearly a year working at the Hyatt Regency Kota Kinabalu.
After that, he spent nearly five years living in Sydney, where he worked at the Park Hyatt Sydney and Sydney Harbour Marriott in addition to earning his degree in restaurant management at Le Cordon Bleu Sydney.
Teoh opened his ideal restaurant as soon as he got back to Kota Kinabalu. “I think there’s a lot of room for innovation and a lot of potential in this F&B scene,” he states. I can make this contribution to my hometown because I was raised here as well.
The area surrounding the fireplace is referred to as a hearth by definition. According to Teoh, “We designed the dining area to make it feel like you’re around our hearth because our restaurant has an open kitchen concept.”
A fancy bone marrow toast or some beetroot carpaccio could be a great way to start a meal at HEARTH. However, the restaurant’s main courses are what really entice a lot of people.
HEARTH’s Pandan Chicken is one of their specialties. The chicken is seasoned with a pandan marinade in a nod to traditional pandan chicken, and instead of deep-frying it, it is grilled over a wood fire.
According to Teoh, “We’ve had our pandan chicken since our test kitchen days, and it’s become a crowd favorite. The fire intensifies the aroma of all the spices, and the chicken fat drippings on the flaming coals add even more smokey flavor.
Open-fire cooking elevates every aspect of the pandan chicken, including the meat, charred chilli, and smoked pandan chutney. Their equally popular Duck & Pear, served with wood-roasted pears and tuhau (wild ginger) beurre blanc, is prepared in a similar manner.
Teoh states, “Our house-smoked duck is smoked for three hours over kayu getah, or rubber wood. As you can expect, this lends it a smokey scent that gas cooking is unable to duplicate.
Cooking over an open flame demands that chefs have a thorough understanding of the various phases and behaviors of fire. Teoh claims that they are constantly fixated on the following essential components: Are the flames burning too low or too hot? Do I need to add more charcoal or wood?
Teoh points out that there are countless options, but “there is no button to adjust.” The heat that is directly in front of you is the only setting we have when working with an open fire.
Naturally, one would be remiss to go to a restaurant that has an open-fire oven and not try their charcoal-grilled steaks, whether it’s a 100-day palm-fed skirt steak or an Australian Wagyu sirloin. Teoh emphasizes that the key in this situation is the raw ingredient and the ease of cooking.
Nothing compares to meat cooked over an open flame. With this dish, there’s no hiding places either. Our chefs have a great deal of skill and sense when it comes to preparing this premium beef.
HEARTH offers more than just meat dishes because of its close proximity to the coast; some patrons find grilled seafood to be particularly appealing. They come back for the seafood skillet, which features a rich bouillabaisse, mussels, and prawns along with the catch of the day.
In addition to offering dine-in service, HEARTH is considering launching a premium line of smoked goods of their own. This would also allow for increased use of their facilities during off-peak hours. “We’re thinking smoked duck, beef bacon, and smoked sausages,” Teoh remarks.
Keeping things interesting for customers and staff may be the secret to a new restaurant’s survival and ability to grow.
“We’re still as passionate about open-fire cooking as ever,” exclaims Teoh. We hope to continue delighting our local market with new and innovative dishes.”
