Who knows what is going on with the weather nowadays. Sometimes it is raining cats and dogs; other times it feels as though we are in the midst of a heatwave, albeit one that can give way to a storm in a heartbeat.
One must be well prepared for either scenario, even in the kitchen.
For the latter, a bowl of snow fungus tongsui with ginkgo nuts and red dates will help cool off the most parched of nerves.
According to traditional Chinese medicine, this tong sui, which is made from just black sesame seeds, rice flour, and water, is warming. ideal for wet seasons and chilly days.
Black sesame seeds, which are high in iron, magnesium, vitamin B, and vitamin E, are thought to have detoxifying, blood-repair, and even rejuvenating properties for hair that appears lifeless.
Black sesame seeds differ from white sesame seeds as they still have the hulls on. (If one uses the white variety, the result might be akin to tahini, which would be great in a creamy hummus but not so much a tong sui.)
But for those of us who love tong sui in all hues and textures, the true pleasure lies in savoring velvety ribbons of delicious ebony flavor as we take spoonful after spoonful. Delicious!
ZI MA WU (SAME PASTE IN BLACK)
There are always short cuts in recipes. Popular tong sui varieties are always available in ready-made powdered forms, especially in “pastes” like peanut or walnut paste. Toss in some boiling water, and your bowl is ready to eat!
However, their tastes aren’t exactly the same. The same applies to zi ma wu; you can find sachets of black sesame paste powders at Chinese herbal shops and even supermarkets nowadays but discerning tong sui lovers will find the end results, while convenient and quick to prepare, lacking in some flavour and, most of all, a fresh and nutty aroma.
To be honest, roasting the black sesame seeds before cooking releases their potent flavor and aroma, so it’s really just one more step.
It doesn’t take much more, but the reward for your work is very satisfying: a bowl of fragrant zi ma wu. The faint bitterness of the black sesame seeds is more noticeable, and the aroma is fresher and more “sesame-y” as opposed to greasy and stale.
The amount of water required also varies from person to person. Treat the measurements in this recipe as a suggestion rather than a requirement.
As an alternative, stir-fry dry ingredients in a wok over medium-high to medium-high heat. Using a spatula, stir continuously to make sure the browning is uniform.
Turn off the heat as soon as the aroma of toasty, nutty black sesame seeds begins to emerge. After setting the black sesame seeds aside, let them cool.
Once the black sesame seeds are cool enough to handle, put them in a blender and process until they become a powder. Before blending on high until you have a fine powder but the seeds haven’t started releasing any oils, pulse the seeds gently first.
Transfer the mixture of black sesame paste into a pot. Pour in the water. Heat to a boil on a medium-high heat setting.
Turn down the heat once it reaches a boil. Stir quickly after adding the sugar until the sugar has dissolved.
Reduce the heat and simmer the mixture for about 10 minutes. Stir from time to time to prevent any mixture from burning at the bottom of the pot.
To make the slurry, combine the rice flour and water in a small bowl. Make sure there are no lumps before adding to the black sesame mixture. Stir and remove from heat once the black sesame paste has thickened to your desired consistency.
Allow the black sesame paste to rest in the covered pot for half an hour or more. This will relax the tong sui, allowing the flavours to deepen. Serve warm rather than piping hot.
